The Mangawhai Tavern (1890)

Model of the Mangawhai Hotel at the Mangawhai Museum

The Mangawhai Tavern is an iconic reminder of days past, from its inception back in the late 1850s until the present time it still operates as a venue for a night out for locals as well as many coming up from Auckland to listen to the band lineups the tavern regularly hosts on weekends. The site's history is a long and complex one; the building has been altered to suit the changing needs of its endless line of owners. Some histories state the tavern has stood since 1862 after the previous building was burned to the ground - in fact, it never did burn down until March 1890 and was replaced by the current building designed by significant Auckland-based architect Charles Le Neve Arnold.

A look into the background dates back to 1859 when Captain William Moir formerly of the 58th Rutlandshire Regiment of Foot built a home on the site where the present building still stands. A family history written about Moir gives no definitive date on when exactly Moir arrived in Mangawhai; however, by 1859 Moir was resident in the area.

... At Mangawai, there are now a considerable number of settlers—among others Messrs. Moir (late Quartermaster of the 58th) and Skeen, both old colonists, and from whom we hear encouraging accounts of Mangawai, which can be reached either by the Great North Road or by sea. We believe the Mangawai folks are social together, and they are and have been for some time agitating for direct postal communication ... 

New Zealander  15 June 1859  Page 3

Mangawhai Hotel (first) as it was under Samuel Mooney ca1860
Object number 15-1 copyright Mangawhai Museum collection

Without consulting any primary documentation such as letters and diary entries it's difficult to ascertain as to when Moir built the house and store - there are no indications in contemporary newspaper reports from the time period of any hotel as such being present. An image dating from ca1860 shows a simple timber structure most likely constructed from pit-sawn kauri by then, it was taken over by Samuel Mooney also a former member of the 58th.

Henry Gilham and Samuel Mooney- retired
Sourced: From ‘quelling war’ to ‘settling the land’:2016: Local Matters

'When the 58th Regiment of Foot first arrived in Northland in 1845, to put down the
‘rebellion’ of Hōne Heke and his Ngā Puhi allies, few would have expected they would
become the new settlers on the lands. However, the 58th Regiment remained in New
Zealand long after the Northern War had ended, and by the time the regiment withdrew
thirteen years later, more than 800 of their rank and file and non-commissioned officers
had been discharged, most becoming settlers in the colony. As many as 80 soldier settlers
chose the Mangawhai district in Northland to build their civilian lives, as it was opened up for settlement through the 1850s, and it is their village referred to in the New Zealander excerpt above. Samuel Mooney was one of these soldier settlers, moving north with his wife Elizabeth (born Trevarthen) after their marriage at St Paul’s, Auckland in 1851, and his discharge in 1853. The Mooneys took up a military land grant which anchored them in Mangawhai and provided them with the base to build their own independence. By 1859, they had expanded their activities, running a busy licensed hotel and general store, servicing the needs of the local community and also offering accommodation, boats for inland travel, and “all the information connected with the Land Regulations,” for prospecting new settlers. By the early 1880s, the former private’s ‘Kauri Falls’ estate would feature in the ‘Society’ pages of the Observer for its “lively” parties. Not all soldier settlers would be able to build such independence from their land.'

                     Soldiers & Colonists: Imperial Soldiers as Settlers in Nineteenth-Century New Zealand: John M. McLellan:                            Chapter 1: Land & the Soldier Settler  p11: MA Thesis Victoria University: Wellington:2018                                                                                        

On November 1, 1859 Samuel Mooney announced by an advertisement that he had obtained a provisional licence from the government and 'he will open the spacious premises lately occupied by Mr. Moir, as an Hotel and General Store'.

New Zealander  2 November 1859  Page 2 

A report on vessels leaving Auckland states Mooney, his wife and three children embarked on the Elizabeth Ann November 5, 1859 for Mangawhai, from McLellan's thesis it appears Mooney was present in Mangawhai before 1859. In March 1860 Mooney advertised 60 acres of land for sale with enquiries to be directed to 'S Mooney Mangawai and Waipu Hotel'.

New Zealander  17 March 1860  Page 1 

In May 1861, the first meeting and formation of a farmer's club was held. It's also the first mention of 'Mangawai Hotel' in a newspaper report.

'On Saturday the 25th May, a meeting was held at the Mangawai Hotel to commemorate the Anniversary of her Gracious Majesty's Birthday and inaugurate a " Farmers' Society," and for the despatch of other business ...  The meeting did not separate without expressing their admiration and high appreciation of the efforts of Mr Mooney to ensure their comfort and enjoyment ...'

New Zealander  5 June 1861  Page 3 

In July 1862, Mooney was granted a new provisional publican's licence. At the end of January 1863, the first market and agricultural show was held in the paddock next to the hotel. A new provisional publican's licence was issued in July of the same year. With the new settlers coming from England under the Albertland settlement scheme Mangawhai's profile came to the fore in many a newspaper report.

'The place known as Mangawai is 4 miles up a tidal creek, and contains two houses, Mooney's (licensed,) and Dennison's (lessee of the ferry,) both keep stores and accommodate travellers; it would be invidious to institute a comparison between them, we have stayed frequently at both, and been very comfortable, so if the traveller wishes to remain all night he must make his choice, and next morning they will ferry him if high water, by boat to Bentley's Point, but at low water he can walk over dry-shod. Uphill and downhill for four and a half miles the road winds along in a very trying manner to Te Arai.'

Albertland Gazette  1 October 1863  Page 3 

At the end of 1867, Samuel Mooney sold out to James Judd who made significant alterations to the hotel to take advantage of the increasing passenger trade between the settlement and Auckland.

... The hotel here has changed hands lately, Mr Mooney, the ex-landlord, having gone to live on his farm, and Mr Judd, late captain of the cutter ' Miranda,' taking his place. He is making extensive alterations and improvements, having within the last month built an addition, two storeys high, consisting of several bed-rooms, a large sittingroom, and a bar. Mr Judd seems determined to keep up the character of the house as a pattern of bush hotels and we hope he will meet with that patronage he so well deserves ...'

Daily Southern Cross  5 January 1867  Page 5 

By May the hotel and store were up for sale. A search in Papers Past in 1867 shows Judd making a return to captaining the Miranda once again on the coastal trade. By 1869, the hotel was again being advertised to let or lease - it's unclear at this point in time (without a land title search) to ascertain who actually owned the site during 1868 to 1869. In January 1870, a man named Thomas Hart was found dead in the hotel; at the inquest that followed Mrs Annie Mairs was mentioned as being the 'landlady'.

In May 1873, William Moir was granted a licence for the hotel now greatly changed from the small dwelling built by him in 1858/59. Moir remained as owner and licensee until March 1875, when the hotel licence was transferred to Pearson Wilson. In 1881, with a new wharf under construction and a future steamer service in the planning, Wilson extended the hotel with 12 extra rooms. In October 1882 the hotel was sold for a significant sum to a Mr Ratjen (or Ratgen) it's possible it may have been Claus Joachim Ratgen who lived in Auckland and held wholesale liquor merchants' licence. In 1884, the licensing district came under the control of the Albertlanders who voted for temperance and a new licence for the hotel was denied. In September of the same year, it was reported the hotel had been granted a club licence. By 1885/1886 (possibly earlier), the hotel was occupied by Henry Miller and was known as the Mangawai Club, in December 1887 Miller bowed out and sold the lease to Matthew Deane. Deane's Tenure was all but brief in July 1888, Deane transferred the licence to John Garland. Garland only remained for less than six months before the licence was transferred to Charles Bishop in early December 1888. In September 1889 Bishop transferred the licence to James Verral (as spelt on notification of intent).

In March 1890, the building was destroyed by a fire that started in the hotel kitchen.

' ...a fire broke out at the Mangawai Hotel, supposed to have originated in the kitchen. A large number of people were soon on the spot. Some [illegible word] were saved, but the whole building was completely destroyed. An insurance is understood to have been on the building, but to what amount is at present unknown. The loss is heavy to both owner and occupant. The strong east wind blowing gave very little opportunity to save any great amount ...'

By April 1890, prominent Auckland-based Architect Charles Le Neve Arnold was commissioned to design the present building.. Tenders were advertised and the building was completed by June of the same year.

Auckland Star  5 May 1890  Page 4 

Auckland Star  23 June 1890  Page 1 

In late June the newly completed hotel was put up for sale along with its gum business and continued to be advertised late into the same year. The story of the old pub continues well after its rebuilding in 1890 - a fully referenced timeline covers the hotel's owners up until 1943 - with some gaps and questions remaining to be answered.

The building is included in the Heritage New Zealand list as a Category 2 site List Number: 3908. It is also scheduled on the Kaipara District Plan as a Category A site H45.

Men pose with trucks outside a hotel in Mangawai
PH-2013-7-TC-B542-07 Collins, Tudor Washington, 1898-1970, photographer (Creator): Auckland Museum

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